Thursday, July 25, 2013

Star block tutorial for swap

Block swap button

If you haven’t signed up yet for this swap, there’s more info here

 

Here’s how to make the block.

Pat also has a tutorial on FPP here

First download the templates from here

Print AS IS! don’t shrink to fit…. that’s very IMPORTANT.

Print out the whole file – 4 pages

( in our case we’re supposed to make 12 blocks so that’s 48 sheets of paper) maybe print one file at a time, then it’s not so overwhelming Smile

Rough cut them out leaving some plain white around it.

july 297

I like to line them up how a quadrant of the block will look with the center of the block on the top left (scissors)

july 298

Now pick out your fabrics – each person will email me their color choices

AND Kona cotton white.

july 300

Now write on the blocks what fabric goes where and write in on EACH piece. the bottom left mirroring the top right side.

Writing them on all sheets helps when you sew, as EQ sometimes numbered them in a different order, just concentrate about template “A” and have the rest be like that too.

july 301

Here’s the cutting directions

A1 = 1” x 3”

A2 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

A3 = 3 ½” x 1 ½”

A4 = 1 ¼” x 3” KONA WHITE

A5 = 7” x 1 ¼” KONA WHITE

A6 = 5 ½” x 1 ½”

A7 = 4” square cut in half diagonally

A8 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

A9 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

 

I like to lay out the fabric piles in order from the bottom and up, so I always grab what’s closest to me

july 316

Before you start sewing, score/fold on each line on the papers on all 8 pieces.

july 322

The first piece is the trickiest and there’s different ways to do it

Lay out #1 on the back of the paper with right side UP, it should overlap at least 1/4” all the way around

july 323

If you fold the paper back on the edge between #1 and #2 it’s easy to see if it’s right.

july 324

Now lay #2 on top, right sides together and pin from the right side of the paper

july 325july 328

OR you can use a bit of glue to place the first piece of fabric, you’ll still pin #2 on top

july 329

Make sure the stitch length is small- I have 1.5 and the needle in the middle

july 330

Here I started where the seam allowance started, but if the line is in the middle of the paper, just start a few stitches before it starts.

Stitch on the line between #1 and #2

july 331

And stop a few stitches past the line but not too much.

Do that with all 8 pieces

july 332

When cutting threads, cut close to the stitching otherwise you’ll have a bird’s nest of threads on the back (ask me how I know)

july 333

You may not need to do this step this time around but just double check, fold back the paper on the scoring line to reveal just the sewn fabrics and using the ADD A QUARTER ruler, trim down to 1/4” if needed.

You can get the ruler online many places

july 334

Iron toward #2 fabric

then fold back paper at the line between #2 and #3 (can’t remember if that’s the picture from above or not) trim to 1/4”

july 335

Now lay #3 on that edge, right sides together and making sure it will cover the #3 spot on the paper as it’s a rhombus shape and kind of odd.

sewn down that seam

july 336

iron toward #3 and trim the next seam between #3 and #4

ajuly 337

When working with white or light fabrics I like to have the white overlap the edge by 1 or 2 threads, this way when I iron it, you won’t see the fabric behind it from the front

july 338july 339

Fabric #5 is a long one and I have a large ADD a QUARTER ruler

july 340

Since it’s such a long piece of fabric it’s a good help to pin this one to prevent from sliding around when you move to the sewing machine

july 341

iron and trim the next seam

july 342

#6 done

july 343

#7 done

july 344

#8

july 345

#9

july 346

According to Pat she doesn’t trim the whole paper until the block is done, so I just trimmed the long side that’s the “mirror” side on all 8 pieces

july 347

Sort the blocks into left and right

july 348

matching the seams by sticking pins straight thru on the seam allowance and line –intersections

july 349

then pin thru the layers

july 350

sew down the line and open up to see if it still matches up correctly, otherwise rip out and fix Winking smile

july 351

I like to them take out the paper on the seam allowance

july 352

and iron the seams open

july 353

Trim down to 6 1/2” by starting at the seam lines by the center (away from the white piece)

july 354july 355

Then trim the other 2 edges

july 356

Sew 2 sections together and open to check the seams again

and again remove the papers and iron the seams open

july 357

Now sew the last edge again by matching up intersections with pins going straight up and then pinning around

july 358

Here’s the block with seams ironed opened

july 359

remove all the papers and iron flat and double check that the block is 12 1/2” ( mine was perfect before I removed the papers, then it was a smidge larger after the paper were removed so I trimmed again- 6 1/4” from the seam in the middle on each side.

Here’s the block all done!

july 360

If you want to join, let me know soon, they are all due in my hands on Oct 1st so there’s almost 3 months to make them.

4 comments:

Melody said...

A fabulous block. Thanks so much for the tutorial.

Carol said...

Beautiful block and great tutorial! I love paper piecing!

W Kruskie said...

Excellent Tutuorial! Beautiful block!

Pat from Florida and Michigan said...

I love the block! That's exactly the colorway I have in mind:)

Great tut. Interesting how everyone tweaks PPing just a bit, to do what works for them:)

I like having those measurements for cutting the fabric. Thanks.